A BRIEF INTRODUCTION OF THE PROTECTED MONUMENTS OF BAGERHAT

The small Sundarban township of Bagerhat was established along the bank of the Bhairab River near about five hundred years ago. It was formerly known as the mint town of Khalifatabad. The original township seems to have been founded in the inhospitable mangroove in the swamps of the sundarbans by a nebulous Saint General named Ulugh Khanjahan, who is believed traditionally a warrior of great piety. Ulugh Khanjahan was either forced by unknown political circumstances to immigrate or he was specially commissioned by the court of Delhi to settle a Muslim colony in this distant region in the 15^th century.

This remarkable adventurer who was undoubtedly the earliest torch bearer of Islam in the south and systematically laid out the nucleus of a rich capital city. Unnoticed in the annals of the period Ulugh Khanjahan who was a contemporary of the independent Bengal Sultan Nasiruddin Muhammad Shah (1442-59). So it is thought that Khanjahan (R:) Conquered this part of Bengal during the rule of the later Illyas Shahi dynasty and founded his seat of Government here. There is no architectural evidence of Muslim rule here before Khanjahan (R). Khanjahan (R:) ruled over an extensive Jungle territory in and around Khanlifatabad, virtually as an independent Chief, but seems never to have issued coins in his name or assumed any lofty sovereign title.

Actually we do not know what was the name of this ancient city during the time of Ulugh Khanjahan. It is a fact that an ancient city named Khalifatabad was here. Perhaps Khalifatabad was the capital of this region or the activities of Ulugh Khanjahan was conducted from this ancient city. His capital city was decorated with numerous mosques traditional by 360 in number, bridges, roads, palaces, mausoleums and other public buildings in a short span of time. This art and architecture of the Khanjahan style are seen for miles around, hidden in luxuriant cocoanut and tall palms grooves. The ruins of the Khanjahan style are also seen to the neighboring regions of Khulna, Jessore and even as far off as Barisal. Large and expansive tanks with regular staircases landings were excavated in various places to provide salt free drinking water in this saline belt. The unique architectural style introduced by the Muslim saint was limited to the southern part of Bengal. As a result, the political and cultural life of Muslim Bengal differentiated to its provincial individuality from the imperial rule of Delhi.

The Tughlaq Sultan of Delhi ruled India for sixty eight years between 1320-1388. The founder of this dynasty, sultan Ghiyasuddin introduced a new style in building art and architecture within his Jurisdiction. So the Tughlaq building style influenced the puritanical character of the Khanjahan’s art and architecture which was followed in respect of the monuments of Bagerhat after a century.

SHAIT GUMBAD MOSQUE

The Historic Shait Gumbad Mosque is a great astonishment of Islamic architectural heritage in Bangladesh. Located on the eastern embankment of Ghora Dighi about 7 kilometers west from present-day Bagerhat Town. This gigantic mosque was built by a great saint named Khanul Azam Ulugh Khanjahan (R) died in 1459 AD, suggesting he has an ethnic Turk; turned his men to stupendous works of Architecture. The vast oblong shaped mosque (48.80 x 32.95 M externally) is even today the largest old mosque in Bangladesh. Famous for its medieval architectural style and twings and tendrils ornamentation on red terracotta. Although it is called Shait Gumbad (Sixty domed) mosque, but in reality it is roofed over with 77 small domes including seven chau-chala Bengali hut shaped domes in the central row. Most probably it has been named Shait Gumbad on the basis of the existing sixty stone pillars inside the mosque. There are eleven arched entrances which are set in rectangular frames in the façade of the mosque. In the western wall, there are ten mihrabs. The central mihrab was built by stone; a special doorway had been built in the western wall beside the central mihrab. The mosque is buttressed by the four tapering corner turrets. This impressive mosque is one of the outstanding examples of the influence of Turkish architecture. Some archaeologists are of the opinion that it is a key monument in the development of Khanjahanian style of architecture.

THE KHANJAHAN MAUSOLEUM

The Mausoleum of Khanjahan (R:) is one of the outstanding example of Khanjahan style of architecture. The mausoleum is the only documents to identify Khanjahan (R:) and his period. The elegant single domed mausoleum of Khanjahan (R:) and his period. is situated at a village named Ronvijoypur in the Bagerhat district at a distance of four Kilometers from Bagerhat town and 3 kilometers south east from the largest historical Shait Gumbad mosque. This single domed square mausoleum measures 13.72M. each side with towers at the four corners. The round corner turrets are divided by five bands of mouldings while the battlements and the cornices are gently curved. The corner turrets had been ended on the cornices. Stone brackets were used inside the mausoleum in order to support the squinches of the dome. It has a doorway on each of the east, south and west sides fitted with stone lintel’s above which there are pointed arches. The northern wall has no doorway. The arched doorways are about 2.08M. in height. The walls are 2.52M thick and relieved internally with two spear headmulticusped small arched lamp niches on each wall. The whole facade is plain without any plaster. The interior of the tomb is also square in size. An alter was built in the centre of the tomb. The alter was built by black stone and it has three stages. It measures 4.88M3.Î66M. The alter had been inscribed by the date of the demise of Ulugh Khanjahan on 26^th Zil-Hajj 863/25^th October 1459 AD. the Aiats of the holy Quran Kalemas and good advices. Nastalic style was used in the inscription. Such style was used during the reign of Alauddin Hussain Shah. The floor of the tomb has lost its original decoration and shape. There is still evidence, that the floor of the tomb was also originally decorated with glazed white, blue and brown tiles and some bearing attractive floral motifs. The mausoleum was surrounded by two boundary walls. The boundary walls are decorated by reticulated ornamentation. Arched linted construction of the tomb recalls the firuzian type of Delhi and its complete simplicity is associated with Tughlaq architecture. The other features are typically local. It is the only monument in Bagerhat which still retains its original shape.

Singair Mosque

Location: This Magnificent single domed mosque located in the neighborhood of Shaitgumbad mosque of the Khanjahan style is situated at a little village name Sundarghona in the Bagerhat district. The mosque is popularly known as Singair mosque It is about 2.75M south east of the Shaitgumbad Mosque across Khulna-Barisal highway.

Description: It is a square shaped single domed (12.04Î12.04M) structure with 2.12M thick walls. It has four rounded corner turrets, relieved with five bands of brick mouldings and the cornices on all four sides are gently curved. On the eastern face there are three arched entrances within the rectangular frame, whilst on the north and south walls there are single entrances. The central mihrab on the west wall, framed within rectangular brick mouldings, is sparsely embellished with terracotta rosettes and foliate motifs. The corner squinch and brick pendentives are plain and brackets supporting them were probably of stone.

Time of Establishment: Architecturally this elegant mosque was built of Khanjahani style it is said that this mosque was built by Khanjahan 15^th century AD.

Designated world Heritage Site and protected monument: Historic Singair mosque was declared as a protected monument in 1975AD by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Bangladesh. It is an enlisted monument of UNSCO inscribed to the Historic Mosque City of Bagerhat in 1985 AD.

REZAKHODA MOSQUE

Location: The ruins of Rezakhoda mosque is situated in a village named Sundarghona of Bagerhat district at a distance of 5 K.M. west from Bagerhat town and 3 K.M. north from the Historic Shaitgumbad mosque.

Description: In fact, it mighat have been known as the Reza-E-Khan mosque. Only some portions of the walls are surviving now. Most probably it was a mosque with six domes supported by tow stone columns. The remains of eastern door way which are still visible. It has four octagonal corner turrets in its four corners. The art and architectural form of the mosque is different from the Khanjahani style.

Time of Establishment: Architecturally this impressive mosque was resembled with style of Khanjahani. Some scholars are the opinions that most probably it was built in 15^th century AD. But few scholars differ with the opinions that it might be erected after the death of Khanjahan (r:).

Designated world Heritage Site and protected monument: Historic Rezakhoda mosque is declared as a protected monument in 1975AD by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Bangladesh. It is an enlisted monument of UNSCO inscribed to the Historic Mosque City of Bagerhat in 1985 AD.

Zinda Pir Mosque

Location: In the medieval mosque city of Bagerhat there is a small square mosque to the north-west corner of the mausoleum of Khanjahan(R:) is popularly known as Zinda Pir mosque. Situated to the little distance of south of the nine domed mosque, surrounded by innumerable masonry graves.

Description: The prominently built central grave is ascribed by tradition to be that of Zinda Pir, a little known saint. The single domed small mosque is square in shape with four octagonal turrets at the four corners of the building relieved at intervals with band of moldings. The mosque measures internally 4.92M.(east-west) and 4.99M.(north-south). Externally 6.65M.(east west) and 5.02M.(north-south). Thickness of the wall is 1.34M. Its eastern wall is pierced with three arched entrances and north and south walls have only a single opening. there is a semicircular ornate terracotta mihrab in the qibla wall. On either side of this mihrab there are two niches at a certain height-one niche on each side. The rectangular frame of this mihrab is richly decorated with various terracotta geometrical designs.

Time of Establishment: This elegant mosque was built of Khanjahan. It is said that this mosque was built in 15^th century AD.

Designated world Heritage Site and protected monument: Historic Zinda Pir mosque was declared as a protected monument in 2011 AD by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Bangladesh. It is an enlisted monument of UNSCO inscribed to the Historic Mosque City of Bagerhat in 1985 AD.

Bibibegni Mosque

Location: Bibibegni Mosque is situated to the west of the Shaitgumbad Mosque. Across an unusually large tank known as Ghoradighi.

Description: Single domed brick built square shaped mosque externally measures on 10M.O10M. There is no Authentic Information on behind for the naming of this mosque. There is a local legend that Bibibegni was one of the beloved wife of saint Khanjahan (r:) who was torch bearer of Islam in this locality. In general appearance this mosque is similar to the Singair mosque. It has four roundish corner turrets in its four corners. There are three arched doorways in its eastern wall and single arched opening in its north and south. The west wall is relieved with three ornate Mihrabs on which the central one is larger.

Time of Establishment: Architecturally this elegant mosque was built of Khanjahani style it was said that this mosque was built in 15^th century AD.

Designated world Heritage Site and protected monument: Historic Bibibegni mosque was declared as a protected monument in 1959 AD by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Bangladesh. It is an enlisted monument of UNSCO that was inscribed to the Historic Mosque City of Bagerhat in 1985 AD.

The Nine Domed Mosque

Location: The Impressive Nine Domed Mosque is located on the western embankment of the Thakurdighi and south-east from the tomb of Khanjahan (R:).

Description: It is a brick-built square structure with round banded towers at the corners and measures 15.24M.square externally. The walls are 2.34 M. thick. The wall surface on all sides shows offsets and recessed chases. There are three arched openings in the cast, north and south walls. The arched entrances open within the cast wall and the central one in the north and south walls are enclosed within broad rectangular panels. The recessed chasses containing the entrance arches in the side walls end at the top in pointed arched engrailing below the cornice. The other recesses in the north, south and west walls also have similar arch engrailing above and ornamental mouldings at the bottom. The mosque interior is divided into three aisles and three bays by two rows of stone pillars, two in each row. The mosque is roofed over by nine low hemispherical domes supported by four stone pillars inside the mosque. That is supported by intersecting pointed arches. Corresponding to the three doors in the east facade, the west wall is recessed with three engrailed arched mihrabs of which the central one is larger than the flanking ones. The decoration of the mosque has been entirely done in terracotta. The mosque has three arched entrances to the east, north and south. The western wall is beautifully relieved with three corresponding arched Mihrabs of which the middle one is larger than other. All the Mihrabs are decorated with terracotta floral scrolls and foliage motifs. It has four rounded corner turrets relived with eight bands of brick mouldings. The cornices of the mosque are gently curved.

Time of Establishment: The mosque is undated due to lack of inscription but is generally ascribed to mid 15^th century.

Designated world Heritage Site and protected monument: Historic Nine domed mosque was declared as a protected monument in 1966 AD by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Bangladesh. It is an enlisted monument of UNSCO that was inscribed to the Historic Mosque City of Bagerhat in 1985 AD.

SABEKDANGA MONUMENT

Location: The elegant Sabekdanga monument is situated at a village named Sabekdanga in the Bagerhat District. It is located about 3 KM. to the north-east of the Saitgumbad mosque at a distance of about 8 KM. from Bagerhat Town.

Description: A tiny brick-built structure, oblong in shape and said to be a mosque, has been discovered from ruins in the village Sabekdanga. The structure measures externally 7.88M×5.10M. and internally 5.59M×3.51M. The walls are 1.47M thick. The exterior of the building has been repaired in recent times with cement plaster, but the interior has been left untouched presumably not to disturb the original masonry and ornamentation. The northern and southern walls were profusely decorated with various terra cottas of foliated motifs. Neither any mihrabs nor any turrets are found in the monument. There is only one entrance on the south. The characters of the mosque are not available here. So the purpose of this beautiful building left unsettled. Perhaps it might be used as a prayer hall. Such impression is obtained from the character of the building and there may be some truth in the local tradition that Khanjahan (R:) the proud conqueror of this Sundarban area held his occasional prayer in this very building.  

Time of Establishment: No inscription could be traced from here. Most probably it was built in 15^th century AD during time of Khanjahan.

Protected monument: Sabekdanga monument was declared as a protected monument in 1989 AD by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Bangladesh.

Ronbijoypur Mosque

Location: This impressive single domed mosque is situated at a village of Ronbijoypur in the Bagerhat district at a distance of 5 kilometers away from Bagerhat. This mosque is popularly know as Faqirbari mosque.

Description: This mosque is a significant example of the Khanjahan style. This structure stands within a furlong to the north of the tomb of Khanjahan (d. 1459) in Bagerhat. Built of brick with walls of unusual thickness of 2.79M, the mosque is a single-domed square building of 17.12M  a side externally. Its four rounded corner towers rise above the cornices with five bands of brick mouldings. Each of the east, south and north walls gives way to three arched entrances. Corresponding to the three entrances in the east wall, there are three arched mihrabs in the west wall. All the cornices of the mosque are gently curved. Corresponding to the three entrances, the west wall is relieved with three mihrabs of which the central one is larger than the others. All the mihrabs of the west wall are decorated with rectangular mouldings and ornamented with multicusped arches and terracotta panels of foliated motifs. The wall surface is plain. It is similar to the Bibibegni’s mosque in plan and appearance. No stone inscription is found here.

Time of Establishment: No inscription could be traced from here. It was said that the mosque was built by Khanjahan (r:) in 15^th century AD.

Designated world Heritage Site and protected monument: Historic Ronbijoypur mosque was declared as a protected monument in 1959 AD by the Department of Archaeology, Government of Bangladesh. It is an enlisted monument of UNSCO that was inscribed to the Historic Mosque City of Bagerhat in 1985 AD.